Leonor de Assis Ferreira
2016 - Winner
Off Flappers and Philosophers
DESCRIPTION OF THE WORK
I started my collection by doing an intense research on 1920’s etiquette in dressing, looking up at original patterns from the time and finding out what garments where used and for what they were used. I also started to record in drawing my own attitude towards clothes, and how they were often tied around my waste or not dressed “properly”. So in de designing of the collection it was Important to me that there was direct references to the 1920s garments, but treated by a modern, careless way.
This collection was inspired by a collection of books by Scott Fitzgerald and Evelyn Waugh, about the daily lives of young people in the early 1920’s.
What I found most fascinating was how etiquette played such a big part in the way the characters dressed. And how there was a set attire for each occasion. That is something that has changed completely from their day to mine, where with fast fashion, our behavior towards clothes has changed completely. So I set myself a challenge: to create a collection that epitomize this two worlds of past “extreme etiquette” and present “not caring”.
To me it was important that the fabric choices reflected the concept so I tried to represent the 1920’s by mimiqing the typical fringes, using waxed cotton ropes and by laser-cutting the fabric, I also tried to mimic the braided-knit cricket vest by braiding ropes on leather, used the traditional piqué fabric for vests and used beeds and pearls in embroideries. On the other hand I also wanted to represent the “not caring” feeling and I did it by cutting traditional trench coats and tying knots in it, using my drawings for digital print the fabrics of the collection and I drew by hand with acrylic paint on leather.